Black Sun & Blue Landscape
"Black Sun"
(Sort Sol)
A natural phenomenon where large flocks of starlings gather at dusk, creating swirling formations in the sky that look like a black sun.
As spring approaches, it’s time for certain migratory birds to return to Northern Europe. That also means the starlings are coming back! One of the largest flocks in Europe gathers at the border between Germany and Denmark, and we went to see them!
Starlings are the small birds you often see in city parks. They are about 20 cm long, slightly smaller than a blackbird. From a distance, they appear black, but when sunlight hits them, their feathers shine with hints of green, blue, and purple.
So, what makes starlings so special that we traveled all the way from Berlin to Denmark to see them?
Well, they have a fascinating habit of flying in huge flocks at sunset, moving together in mesmerizing patterns before settling down for the night. This spectacle is called a starling murmuration.
And when I say a big flock, I don’t mean just hundreds, I mean hundreds of thousands! It’s incredible to watch so many starlings moving in sync, creating ever-changing shapes in the sky.
Starling murmuration shot on Canon EOS R6 24-105 mm
Why do they do it?
What looks like a spectacular show to us is actually a survival strategy for starlings. They fly together in tight formations to make it difficult for predators, such as eagles, to catch them. And when there’s no predator around, the males take the opportunity to impress the females with their dance moves 😏
Where to See Them and How to Get There
One of the largest starling flocks in Europe returns to the marshlands at the border of Denmark and Germany in spring. This phenomenon, locally known as "Sort Sol" (Black Sun), takes place between two small towns: Aventoft in Germany and Tønder in Denmark. The birds are usually spotted in the marshy areas between these towns, more precisely here.
The best way to get there is by car. The area has no major cities nearby—only small towns a few kilometers apart—and public transportation options are limited. Having a car also gives you more flexibility :)
At the spot where you can see the birds, there’s a small parking area where you can wait in your car until the birds arrive—because it’s freezing cold in March! I also recommend arriving about an hour before sunset, as the parking space only accommodates a few cars.
Starlings on the fly shot on Canon EOS R6, 24-105 mm
When to Go?
This phenomenon happens twice a year: once in spring (March, April) and again in autumn (October, November). While I was there, I learned that the flocks are usually much larger in autumn. This is because during winter, many of the young birds don’t survive, so there are fewer starlings in spring.
We went in March, and it was still absolutely worth it! I mean, “fewer birds” still means around 300,000 starlings in the sky! For comparison, in October, the flocks can grow to an incredible 1–3 million birds. Soooo, it’s really up to you!
Booking a Tour or Not
If you search online, you’ll find multiple tours in the area under the name “Black Sun” or “Sort Sol,” mostly offered from Denmark.
We went to the spot I mentioned earlier on our own on Friday evening and watched an amazing show. Then, on Saturday evening, we decided to book a tour (€32 per person), and they took us to... the same spot by bus! 😅
Here’s the thing: the birds don’t always fly in the exact same location every evening. Tour operators monitor the birds daily to know where the best spot will be, so if you don’t want to risk missing them, I recommend booking a tour. Plus, the guide shares detailed information about the birds, which can be really interesting!
In the end, we realized that tours aren’t really for us—it didn’t feel like true exploring. So next time, we’ll skip the tour and go on our own. But hey, if you prefer playing it safe or learning more about the birds, a tour might be worth it for you!
Where to Stay and Eat?
I recommend staying in Tønder because Aventoft mostly has holiday houses for rent, and it’s more of a quiet village with beautiful homes—some even have grass roofs!
Tønder, on the other hand, is a charming Danish town with gorgeous architecture and a lot of Danish character. It’s amazing how the vibe completely changes once you cross the border—suddenly, everything has that Scandinavian charm. And the towns are only 15 km apart!
We stayed at a really nice motel in Tønder, and I highly recommend it.
Tønder city center on an early Saturday morning shot on Canon EOS R6 24-105 mm
On Friday night, we discovered a cozy restaurant/bar called Victoria in Tønder and had dinner there. They serve delicious hamburgers made with walnut bread that they bake themselves, plus a variety of beers. The menu is quite rich! We loved it so much that we went back again on Saturday night.
As early birds, we were, of course, up super early and wanted breakfast right away. Here’s the thing about Tønder—every café and restaurant opens at 11 a.m., and the streets are completely empty in the morning! 😅 So, we ended up at a local bakery called Klosterbageriet where we had breakfast on both Saturday and Sunday mornings. Everything there is absolutely delicious! I recommend trying the shrimp sandwich and the scones—sooo tasty!
What to Do During the Day?
Since the starling show happens in the evening, you’ll need something to do during the day. Well, I got you covered 😏
Not far from Tønder is the Wadden Sea National Park (National Park Vadehavet), where you can explore the marshlands, observe other migratory birds, and witness the low and high tides. There are also some islands you can visit! We chose to visit Rømø, home to the spectacular Lakolk Beach by the North Sea. Rømø is part of the Tønder municipality and is about 45 km from Tønder.
Geese on the fly shot on Canon EOS R6 24-105 mm
To get there, you cross the Rømødæmningen Bridge, which connects mainland Denmark to the island and offers a fantastic view of the Wadden Sea. Along the way, there are parking spots where you can stop, take in the scenery, and observe migratory birds. When we drove towards the island, the tide was low, and in some areas, we could even see the seabed. On our way back to Tønder, the tide was high again, and all we could see was water!
Low tide on Wadden Sea shot on Canon EOS R6 24-105 mm
Once you reach Rømø, Lakolk Beach is just a 13-minute drive across the island. The unique thing about this beach is… you can drive your car on it! I know it sounds crazy, but the sand is so compact that you can drive without getting stuck—though, of course, you still need to be careful. The beach is 1–3 km wide and 12 km long, so there’s plenty of space for both cars and people. It felt like being in the middle of a desert... except with the sea right in front of us! 🤪
Final Thoughts
Seeing the Black Sun was an unforgettable experience—one of those rare natural spectacles that leave you in awe. Whether you visit in spring or autumn, on your own or with a tour, it’s something every nature lover should witness at least once. Plus, the area itself is unique, with so much more to explore beyond the starlings, like the Wadden Sea National Park and the interesting landscape around the area.
So, if you're looking for an adventure that's both relaxing and breathtaking, you know where to go!
Lots of love ♥︎